As you may recall, we had a bit of an issue with our plastic vertical blinds when we took them down to get our new windows installed, which resulted in us using a sheet to cover one of the windows in our master bedroom.

It was not the ideal window treatment, but neither were the plastic vertical blinds. It was time to get serious about finding a new way to cover our corner windows.

I did some research both on retro and modern ways to cover corner windows and thought I had a plan all figured out until the new windows were in and I discovered that I didn’t have enough room to do an inside mount for roller shades. DRAT! Back to the drawing board.

Not only are our windows in a corner, but they are also huge. Each window is 72 inches wide by 36 inches high not including trim. That spells custom window treatments which means expensive. This is where my idea to look at IKEA curtains came in. As we all know, IKEA is home to affordable modern stuff that many tmes you can customize to fit your needs. I had always liked the KVARTAL panel curtain and track system at IKEA, so I figured maybe I could make that work for my windows.

Luckily, I have a friend who has installed the KVARTAL curtain system in her house so I could ask her all of my planning questions (since our nearest IKEA is over and hour and a half away). At first I thought I needed all sorts of extra stuff (the directions are confusing!) but once I talked to Krystal about it, I realized I was making it way more complex that it actually was.

If you want to avoid the step-by-step instructions please scroll waaaay down the post to see the finished product!


First you need the wall hardware. I chose the larger of the two bracket choices because of the number of tracks I needed to hold the panels to cover my 72 inch wide windows.

Then you need the rails. In order to cover each 72 inch window with some overlap, I needed four panel curtains per window. Since I wanted the curtains to open from one side to the other (due to my corner window) instead of pulling half the panels to each side, I needed one track for each curtain panel. Therefore I need four tracks, so I bought the three track rail and a single track rail, adding up to four total tracks. Since each rail is 55 inches long, I needed two of each kind for each window and yes, I would have to cut them (this worried me at first) so I bought the recommended IKEA saw.

You also need the curtain panel top and bottom rails.

You will need one of these for every panel you are hanging. It is the part that holds the fabric panel and connects onto the rail.

Choose your panels! This is the fun part. You can either go with something IKEA has already cut and packaged for the KVARTAL system (which is what I chose to do) or you can make your own panels out of any fabric or any other material you can think of that you can make panels with. I chose the ANNO SANELA style in beige. I would have liked to pick a color for my shades, but the colors they had available didn’t really go with the bedroom and I didn’t feel like making my own panels, though I may do it in the future.

Lastly, you need a draw rod for each window. Originally I thought I needed one for each panel! Wow was I wrong. Luckily my friend Krystal set me straight before I got the the checkout with a whole pile of draw rods. (note: you can go without the draw rod and just pull the curtains shut with your hands, however, this accelerates dirt accumulation and wear on the curtain panels, so I advise getting the draw rod.)

This system of curtains actually ended up costing half what I would have paid to have custom (huge) roller blinds made for my windows!


Ok, first let’s see what we need to do this job in addition to the parts I just detailed above:

  • Flat topped screws (with mollies if you don’t hit a stud) to attach the brackets to the wall. This is important because the way the brackets are made is that you attach an under plate to the wall and then slide the bracket over it which hides the screws. If you don’t get flat head screws, the bracket will not slide over the plate. I started out with rounded head screws and had to go back to the hardware store. Boo.
  • Drill with drill bits and screwdriver bits. Variable speed drills are best if you have access to one. It just makes life easier!
  • Hammer to pound in the mollies.
  • Ikea saw see above
  • Clamps to hold down the rods while you are sawing them
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil for marking on the wall
  • Sharpie For marking on the curtain panels and the rails if you have to cut them
  • T-square or ruler for drawing a straight line on panels to cut on
  • Scissors
  • Level no one wants crooked drapes!
  • Step stool or ladder if you are short like me
  • Someone else to help you like your adorable husband! Several parts of this job require two sets of hands.
  • Patience it takes a while to figure out some of the steps, but once you get it, it gets easier!

Ok, now we are ready to start hanging the curtains!

First figure out how long you want your curtain rods to be. I decided mine should be 86 inches long so they would cover the 72 inch window and then allow some extra space for the curtains to hang when they are open (that way they block less of the window).

Once you have that measurement figured out, cut your rails to size. Since I am using two rails of each size per window and they are 55 inches each, I want to cut them so they will connect in the middle where the wall bracket is so they will be supported. I cut each rail to 43 inches.

It helps to clamp the rail to the surface you are cutting on (in this case, my kitchen counter) which minimizes slipping and makes it easier to cut. Surprisingly, I liked IKEA’s saw for this job, even though I often think their tools are not the best. The box was adjustable so that a center piece popped in and out to hold either a three rail or a single rail track. It was also grooved to aid in the gripping of the track. As far as the sawing went, it was much easier to cut the single rail than the triple because it was less materials to cut through and it fit better in the miter box. Once I got the triple rail started, it wasn’t so bad. Just getting the cut straight from the start takes a little bit of patience.

Next you need this piece. (and the little allen wrench that adjusts it) The center screw is what goes through the wall bracket and attaches the rail to the wall. The other screws are what hold this piece in place inside the rail.

On each end of each rail, that center screw must be between 2 inches and 5  7/8 inches from the end of the rod. This is likely for stability’s sake. I decided to put mine 5  7/8 inches from the end.

When you join two pieces of rail together, the center screw must be in the center. This provides added stability for the rail. Make sure all four of the side screws are tightened with the allen wrench to keep the track together.

Both rails should have the center screws line up on the ends and in the middle, as they will both be hooked onto the bracket in the same place.

Since I am working in a corner, I decided to put the end caps on one side of my rails so I wouldn’t have to work in the corner later to get them on.

Next you need to figure out where the wall brackets should go. IKEA suggests that you leave at least an inch from the corner of the wall to the end of the rail, probably so you can get the end caps on and off as needed. I knew I put my screw to attach the rail to the bracket at 5  7/8 inches from the end, so I measured 6  7/8 inches from the corner for my first wall bracket.

For this tutorial, I am hanging my second rail, so I took the measurement from the existing rail that I had hanging and butted the second rail right up to the first rail so that the entire corner would be covered. (see finished rails below for what I am talking about!)

Then I measured 5  7/8 inches from that rail to hang my first bracket there. From the center of that bracket, I measured 38 inches (distance from center screw to center screw on my rails) and did the same for the third wall bracket.

Of course you want to make sure they are level. I measured 2 inches up from my top trim on the window (which is level!) You need to leave at least an inch or two between the top trim and the bottom of the bracket so you can tighten the bracket in place.

Trace the outline of your wall plate so you have an idea of where to line it up when you screw it into the wall.

Drill holes where your screws will go. If you hit a stud, you will only need a tiny hole for the screw. If you don’t you will need to drill a larger hole to insert mollies so your screws have something to grab onto and therefore will not fall out of the wall. (This part was very frustrating at first! In the corner of our room we have the hardest wood studs ever and we had a heck of a time drilling/getting the screws in on the first one! Luckily my patient husband Jim figured out a good method for making the holes and then we were all set!)

If you are using mollies, gently tap them in with a hammer. If they don’t go right in and bend when you hammer them, your holes are not quite big enough. Remember, they will expand when you screw in the screw and will be secure in the wall.

Next screw in your bottom plate. Oops! I didn’t get a picture of this step! I started the screws with my hand screwdriver and then used my drill with screwdriver bit to finish them off. It is important that the bottom plates are level because they are the foundation of your rod system! I held a mini-level on the top of the plate as I screwed it in to make sure that it was level. It is a little frustrating, but with some patience it can be done!

Now it’s time to put the brackets up! They slide over the plate and then are tightened with a tiny screw and allen wrench to hold them in place.

Now it’s time to put up the rails! This part requires two sets of hands enter adorable husband Jim. We hung the triple rail in the front and the single rail below. If the center screws in your rails don’t totally line up, fear not! You can just unscrew the side screws, move it over a little, and tighten them back down. We had to do that even with our careful measuring.

As you can tell by the windows, it was getting dark. Once the rails are up, you should probably feed your husband if you want him to continue to help you!

Once you are refueled and realize you need to finish the curtains so you have window treatments for the night….

Unroll your curtain material and measure the desired length of each panel remembering it will be about half an inch shorter once you attach the fabric to the top and bottom rail. I made my panels 50 inches each. I measured and marked three dots with a sharpie so that I could ensure a straight line.

Next use a t-square or ruler to draw your cut line. Luckily I had the t-square laying around from my art school days.

Cut your panel carefully!

Now you will need to attach the top and bottom rails. Start with the top. Lay the top piece (holes up) at the end of your fabric.

Remove the strip to expose the sticky stuff on the strip that holds your panel in the top rail.

Stick it to the curtain panel about 1/4 inch from the top and fold the fabric over the strip, then feed it into the slot in the top rail.

Screw in two of the short screws on the center holes only (see circled above) with the allen wrench. This holds the panel in place.

Using the same method, put the rail on the bottom of the panel, using all four screws to secure it.


On the top of the rail, screw in the catch as shown below. This is where it starts getting tricky folks. If you want your curtains to catch on each other as you open and close them, you will need to install these catches. It took me about an hour to figure out how to get them to work. What works for me is putting all four panels back catches like this:

Then I put the first panel front catch on like this:

This will be the panel that has the draw rod on it and is on the front track.

The next 3 panels will have the piece on with the loop on the fabric side as show below:

Hang the panels by putting the glides into the track you want to hang the panel on and then simply snapping the knobs on the top panel curtain rail into the glides.

When you have all four panels in and they are in the open position the catches will look like this:

Disclaimer: This is how the catch system worked for me. Depending on how you are having your panel curtains open and which side they are opening from, they may be different. This part of the process takes the most patience and a little bit of trial and error. I just figured it would be helpful to see how it looks in pictures instead of the IKEA drawn instructions which can be confusing. I am by no means an expert!

Now simply clip the draw rod onto the front panel!

Put on your end caps and you are ready to go!

For all of you who skipped the tutorial, HERE’S THE REVEAL!

The corners meet up nicely!

Here is how they look in the day. The panels do not completely block out the light. This is fine for us because 1) our closest neighbors can’t see in our windows anyway 2) We need some light to come in and wake us up in the morning so we don’t sleep all day and 3) They let in enough light so we don’t stumble around due to being blinded by too much light or it not being light enough in the morning! IKEA does make panels that are more sheer as well as panels that block out more light. For our needs in this room a middle of the road solution was right for us.

Look how nice they look! Now to fix the spots where the old window treatments were attached to the wall…but that’s for another day.

Once again for drama…

Here is what we used to have for window treatments:

Then we had this:

and finally:

So much better!

For anyone who is thinking of putting up the KVARTAL panel curtain system or is frustrated and in the midst of an install, I hope this helps!

UPDATE: I’ve just installed KVARTAL Curtains in my Guest Room. I used light blocking and sheer panels that open from the inside out…check out my post here.



  1. Thank you so much for posting this. Even with all this help, getting the catch system to work properly was tough. Without this… yikes.

    • You are welcome Robin!

      I posted it because I also had trouble finding information about the curtain system, especially the catch system part…it took me forever to figure it out!

      Glad I could help!

  2. Thanks for posting this. I am still deciding on whether or not to use the system. I was a little put off noting that the Ikea panels are 80-90% paper and you cannot clean them so I guess that means I need to make my own…
    Good job by the way!

    • You are welcome Marguerite!

      I was a little put off by the high paper content/not able to clean thing too…I figured by the time they are in need of replacing I may want to change them up anyway, so I may make my own at that point. I think as long as you use the pull rod to open and close the drapes, they won’t look dirty for some time. I have a friend who didn’t get the pull rod and she says she can tell where she touches the blinds to close/open them (and she has had them for about 3 years).

    • Thank you for posting this. I was considering these but after scrolling through this presentation I decided I would rather poke my eyes with a stick until they bleed than to go through this process. You have saved me an immense amount of heartache and time. Thanks again.

  3. Ikea owes you for this! The instructions are pitiful. I went berserk trying to get mine hung! Your documentation is awesome!

  4. I’m usually very good with the IKEA pictures but was so frustrated with the catch system drawings I just didn’t get it! With my friend GOOGLE and your pictures I’m sure I will be successful today finishing my project and will be able to retain my sanity.

  5. Kate
    Thank you sooooo much for this post – my husband and I put up our Kvartal Blinds last week and just love them – but we realized we are going to need the rods – you saved us a trip back to IKEA because I would have bought one for each panel.

  6. I have no idea why IKEA uses extremely vague instructions. Even the illustrations fail to properly indicate certain item and in their proper orientation which makes it more difficult.

    This is an amazing informational D-I-Y and you two ARE AMAZING. You have no idea how this page has helped many people, because let me tell you…

    I work in IKEA and let people read the instructions (this site) in store! 😮

      • Thank you so much for posting this! I was actually researching people’s experiences making their own panels for the KVARTAL system and happened to come across your blog. We are going to be installing tonight, so I am glad to have found your instructions! Your bedroom looks amazing – you’ve pulled off yellow so well! Great sheets! What is the origin of that painting? (Can you tell I’m excited?^_^)

      • Hi Janina!

        You are welcome! Glad I could help! Good luck making your panels and hanging the rails!

        The “painting” isn’t a painting, it’s a piece of screen printed fabric stretched on a frame like a canvass. It was my mom’s. She bought it in the late 60s or early 70s.

  7. Thanks for this post., This sheds a little more light on this,. hopefully we will close our curtains tonight as a result of your help,,,,

    • You are welcome Ian, I also looked for hours for some sort of how to video and never found it. I figured if I needed some help, maybe others would too, so I made my own how to! Glad to be of help!

  8. This looks like it would work wonderfully using solar shade fabric (sold on the roll with no hardware attached) instead of the paper/fabric panels. With your post, I’ll be able to *show* my husband how it should work rather than failing miserably at trying to explain it. Thank you for posting this!

  9. You seem to have a lot of information about the Kvartal system. I appreciate you for posting this. I would like to use it for a ceiling mounted shower curtain. I need it go around one corner. Do you think it will work?

    • Hi Valene,

      No problem!

      I don’t have any experience with the ceiling mounted system, but from what I can tell, they do make parts that would go around corners for ceiling mount. I say give it a try!

      Good Luck!

  10. Thank you! Given the distance and my access to a car, I may only be able to get to IKEA once before I have to install, so I hope you don’t mind helping me troubleshoot in advance. Do you see any problem with me using the hardware on material/fabric I would like to purchase instead of the IKEA Panels? Am I correct in my understanding that I can get material that will be 55 inches wide b/c that is the length of the rods?

    • Hi M.P.!

      You are very welcome! Making your own fabric panels sounds like a great idea! I haven’t tried making my own panels yet but if I were going to do it here are a few things to think about:

      1) The thicker the fabric, the harder it will be to get the end of it into the top and bottom rail. You have to fold whatever material you are using around a piece of metal and then get it into the holder, which is trickier with thicker stuff. I would also think about using some sort of fray stop on the end of the fabric instead of hemming it as that will add extra bulk, making it that much harder to get it into the top and bottom rail.

      2) The rails hold material that is 24 inches wide and it can be as long as you want it to be. The panels I bought at IKEA were 24 inches wide by 118 inches long, but I cut them down because I didn’t have floor to ceiling windows. To answer your question, the curtain rods come in 55 inch lengths. This is not the part that holds the fabric. This is the part that holds the top and bottom rail and allows it to slide along the track. The top and bottom rails are 24 inches wide. Therefore unless you wan to use the curtain hooks on this system (which I have not used before) you will need to cut panels of fabric that are each 24 inches wide and however tall as you need to cover your windows.

      Hope that helps! Good luck!

      • I adapted curtains that I already had for this system because I wanted a thicker, room darkening curtain. The curtain fabric was canvas-like and fit just fine in the top rail. I doubled the fabric but made sure that I left about 1 inch on the top a single layer so I was sure it would fit in the rail. (Does that make sense?) The hardest part is making sure the curtains are straight and 24 inches wide from top to bottom. Lots of work but worth it. Now I can wash them when they get dirty. Thanks for the instructions, they were very helpful.

  11. Great information. My husband and I have just installed 4 window systems this weekend. We purchased the fabric on sale at hancock Fabrics which was great. Now my problem is finishing the vetical edges without hemming. I was thinking of using iron on hemming tape but I saw you mentioned fray stop. I will google that next to see how that works. Any other suggestions.

    • Thanks Ruth!

      I’m not a very well versed seamstress, and I have yet to attempt my own panels, but my biggest concern would be getting the fabric into the top and bottom rails that hold it in place. The thicker the fabric, the harder it is to get everything where it needs to be. That’s why I suggested Fray Stop. I haven’t tried it myself yet, but that would be the first thing I would try if I were making my own panels.

      Good luck!

  12. It looks super, a job well done. It has taken me a while to get the brackets up but I am getting there haha!!! I have three different panels, I liked the idea of different textures so I hope it looks as fab as yours once I am done. TYTYTY for making this tutorial, made it so much easier to follow than the rolled up directions from IKEA haha!!!
    Have a super evening
    Kay 🙂

  13. I found your site while looking for alternative natural panels, Ikea doesn’t have a color in Kvartal that I want. I used to work as a designer at the store and I have to say, your patience with both the installation and documenting each step are what Kvartal needs. My fellow interior designers and I would always muse out loud about customers doing this themselves as the instructions are very vague, the staff in Textiles is typically inexperienced with the product, and the in-store presentation and parts information is always lacking. We (as the design and merchandising team) would tackle Kvartal every year, trying different ways of informing the customer how it worked, but there was never a good solution that worked with the Ikea philosophy of the customer doing all the work to inform and buy.

    One thing, did you know that there is a Kvartal corner option? You can use the single corner track and layer them. Combining this with a soft curtain (Ikea or any fabric store) will give you a seamless look. The only problem is, using multiple tracks you would have to use all single and not the triple rail. More expense, but a seamless look.


    • Thanks Tiffany!

      I did see the corner track option, but it didn’t seem to work with the panels. I also wanted the panels to open away from the corners, so the solution that I worked out is great for me. It is nice to know that I could change them for a more seamless look in the future if I so desired.

      Thanks for commenting!

  14. Great tutorial. I was a little afraid or scared to install these window treatments next weekend, but your tutorial made me feel a lot better. thanks

  15. Thank you so much for posting the solution! I have the system setup on the floor in my family room. I was stuck on how to make the panels move. I purchased the 3 track ~ it’s for a sliding glass door that’s 75″ wide. It sounds like (based on your post) I need to go back to IKEA & purchase a single track to add onto the system & the larger bracket choices unfortunately. I wasn’t sure how many panels to buy so I bought 6 to be safe. I think it’s safe to assume I can use four panels & copy how you did yours and be okay. One question: where did you fit in the little metal sliders that have a phillips head screw attached? Each “top & bottom” peice came with it. This confused me the most – wondering where these go. It seemed like they were a stopper or a catch of some sort on the rail & part of the system to make the panel stop where you wanted it to. Looking at your instructions I see that the little plastic hook is a catch but I don’t see where you added the metal slide with the screw. Were these optional for certain window setups? In the awful folded instruction packet IKEA has those metal sliders going in behind the plastic panel slide holders (I think).

    Soo glad I found your blog. I have an even larger Kvartal setup to do in the actual living room – this is for a very large window where I will need it to open in the middle. I went with the 3 panel track again & 6 panels per the store instructions.

    I was beginning to wonder if the custom treatments from Lowes (at $385 for the SMALLER treatment) was worth it after all due to the amount of time I have spent starting at the Kvartal panel & instructions dreading having to do this a second time.

    Going to tackle this tomorrow again. With your instructions I think I’m going to pull through – thanks again!

    • Hi Jodie!

      You are very welcome!

      As far as the tracks/panels, it works best if you have one panel per track if the curtain will close and open moving one way only (like left to right). You can do two panels per track if the curtain will open from the middle out to the edges. Basically if you want the curtain to go completely off the window when it is open, you need to make sure you have enough wall space on either side and extend the track about 24 or so inches off the side (width of the curtain panel) so you can slide it out of the way. In order to slide all the panels out of the way, you then need one rail per panel so they can “stack” at the end. Hope that helps!

      As far as the metal sliders go, I put them on the ends of the tracks where the curtain panel got close to the edge of the rail. It probably isn’t needed because of the end caps on the rail hold the curtains on the track, but I figured it would help in case someone was forcefully opening or closing the curtains and the end cap came off. You could also use them if you wanted the curtain panels to stop at a certain point, but I have not felt them to be necessary.

      Good luck with your installations! Hopefully you will feel that it is all worth it when you are done! 🙂

    • Hi Darlene,

      I’ve never tried to attach these curtains to the ceiling, but I know they are able to be installed that way. I don’t know what your specific situation is, but I would think it would be possible. Good luck!

  16. Great pictures and commentary, even made me laugh while doing this project. I set up the triple track which will have two panels on each track opening from the center (three panels to each side). I am stuck on the catches and can’t figure if there is a way to catch the three panels opening out to left/right from the center where they will stack at the ends, AND having them catch when they close and move from the end stack to the closed, spread position. Do you use more than one catch/panel or isn’t it possible to do this. Do not want six rods. Any additional help would be great, your help so far was excellent and thanks again.

    • Hi Eric,

      Glad I could help and entertain at the same time!

      If you put the catches on correctly, you should be able to get them to open the way you described. The one side (that opens from center to left) should look just how mine look in the photo (minus one panel if you only have three) they should then catch when opening both ways. The other side will be “flipped” so that it opens to the other side, but you should be able to have it catch to open and close from center to right. You will not need 6 rods if they open from the center. Just make sure to allow enough room on either side of your window (have the track go past the window) so that you can get the curtains off the window if you desire and have them stack. Since they will be stacking one on each side per rail, three rails will work perfectly. Good luck!

  17. Wes – Austin Texas
    Thanks for posting. There is NO info on the web on how to do this. I purchase stuff on the whim and got what I thought was the whole setup last night. Well found out I bought a bunch of crap that wasn’t related haha.
    After reading your post I am now set to go back to ikea and get the right stuff.
    Much appreciated POST!!

  18. thank you for share it. i have just installed them, and I feel something goes wrong. My panels doesn’t overlap properly. After see your step by step, I have just see where you put the back catches. That change makes panels overlap in a more beautiful way.

  19. Thank you for posting this. I’ll be installing these in my parter’s Yoga studio this weekend and greatly needed the step-by-step!

  20. I am looking for a system like this but am in fear of not getting it right is there a way to get a step by step instructions…we love Ikea and have all our furniture from there and would like to try the panels for a Den door way for when guest come so they have some privacy…and will 1 wand work for I think I need 4 panels but not sure how do I get the info on size of fabric panels used and how much of everything I will need…my opening is 71 w x80 1/2 L and we want to go 104 w x 86 L finished or close to that it could be less then 104 w so coulkd you help me figure this all out please… We have company coming to our winter home soon so we need to do something.Thank you for all you can do for me…we love Ikea and hope tyo go there after we hear from you and get them up. The problem going to the store is trying to get help on these matters.
    Colleen Moore

    • Hi Colleen,

      It sounds like the KVARTAL curtain system from IKEA would work for you. If you go to http://www.ikea.com and navigate to the curtains section, you can see the size of all the curtain panels is 24 inches wide by 118 inches long. You can cut these to your length (86) without any problem and in order to cover your 104 inch width, you would probably need at least 5 panels (they will overlap some). Read through my post and check out this link (it should download a pdf that is a guide to the KVARTAL curtain system and that should help you out!


      Good luck!

  21. Pingback: Retro house bloggers install a Sputnik chandelier… bullet lights… Ikea curtain tracks and more — Retro Renovation

  22. Thank you for posting step by step… I’m planning a trip from Hawaii to visit Ikea in SF area and need to make sure I purchase all the right pieces, measure correctly etc., since I’m not able to “go back” if I fail to buy something. Thanks so much! Looking forward to my new window treatments! Ericka

  23. I’ve always been a big fan of IKEA. It’s great to see more and more of those in the Retro tribe using IKEA products. These window treatments look FABULOUS!

  24. Hi Kate–
    Got to this post via Retro Renovation–this is great! We’ve been thinking about this system. We have the same clacking vertical blinds on our slider to the deck. I’ve always been intimidated by it. Still am, a bit–but it’s great to have this resource. Thanks for creating it.

  25. oh thank you thank you thank you for putting these directions online! I thought I was going to cry and have to stand in ikea lines to return these!

  26. For any of your readers who may prefer stacking curtain to overlapping rigid panels, http://www.curtain-tracks.com provides a wide range at affordable prices that can be used to tackle all sorts of window treatment and room divider design challenges.

    Your step by step directions are outstanding, as commended above. It’s great to see folks sharing and providing practical info that helps the DIYers out here.

  27. Hiya. Great post thanks! Hopefully it will come in very handy shortly!

    I’ve just bought the triple system, and started getting it all out and looking through it but what I can’t work out is; is it going to be possible to slide panels on the different parts of the triple system separately? I didn’t realise they had a catching mechanism that would move all of them…..Ergh!! :0

    Thanks a lot!

    • Hi Mooky!

      The catch system is optional (little beige plastic pieces that screw to the top rail that holds the curtain panel) You don’t need to put those in. If you don’t put those pieces on, you can move each panel separately. Good luck!

      • Yes thanks for that! I’ve got it all up! Hoorah!

        The hardest thing I found was getting them all to hang straight as I dont have a set square and it only needs to be off a fraction for the whole thing to look a bit wonky.

        Also it’s very hard not to crease the plain paper style blinds, but the bamboo style/textured panels all work pretty well! Not bad at all!

        Thanks again x

      • Congrats on your successful installation!

        It is difficult to get them to all hang straight! Especially with the thick material! 🙂 I’ll be hanging yet another set at my house in the next few weeks! Ahhh!

  28. Hi Kate. my name is Angelo and i work in the textiles department at IKEA Long Island. The Kvartal system is my specialty and even i must say that you have done an incredible job with this tutorial!! Beautiful! i have installed the system many times from room dividers, window treatments, sliding doors.. you name it… i also do the dispalys in the store. if you ever make it to long island, stop by and say hi. Also if you ever need any help with future IKEA projects or items, look me up! i will assist you any way i can. Take care, Angelo Corsini, IKEA Hicksville, Long Island.

    • Thanks Angelo! You sound like the KVARTAL panel curtains expert! I’m glad to know my tutorial is up to par! 🙂

      I appreciate the offer of help! I may take you up on that one of these days!

      Thanks for reading!

  29. I have a glass wall next to my apartment entrance and my vertical blinds recently broke and I was unable to obtain replacement part. The Kvartal panel system seems like a great idea, but can the panels be cut to width, the window is only 33″ wide x 79″ long and the panels are 24″ wide, so would I be able to cut the panels vertically and use the triple rail to hang them?

  30. Your instructions were awesome, having a step-by-step with pictures made putting up the Kvartal System easy. I cannot imagine assemblying with just the paper instructions. Thank you so very much.

  31. Thank you so much for your quite detailed written and visual instructions. When my wife and I opened up the containers and started looking through the instructions, we looked at each other and said…”ohhhkay….now….what does this all mean”? And you more than cleared it up for us. I honestly am not sure we could have figured it out without you. You made me realize that if all of us took the time to share some knowledge with others, our everyday lives would be easier, less stressful…..and more connected with one anther. Thanks again.

  32. These instructions are simply fantastic. Ikea should use these to update their video and paper instructions (which are really not quite up to par). But I wanted to make a small correction. Where you say: “Now it’s time to put the brackets up! They slide over the plate and then are tightened with a tiny screw and allen wrench to hold them in place.” — the tiny screw is actually tightened with a Phillips head screwdriver. It shows a Phillips head on the paper instructions (Step 7). I tried the Allen wrench, and it didn’t seem to work. It’s a very tiny screw, so get the sharpest, smallest Phillips head you have! For that reason, it helps if the bracket is a couple+ inches above the window molding, so you have room to get the screwdriver as close to the wall as possible. I just finished my installation, and it went smoothly thanks to your directions!

    • Glad to be of help Marion!

      Re the Step 7: IKEA has changed how the brackets attach. The first two sets of these curtains I put up in my bedroom and office were allen wrench, the new set I just hung in my guest room last spring were the tiny Phillips head screw. So yes, step 7 is now incorrect for anyone who has purchased these panel curtains in probably the last 8 months to a year…thanks for pointing that out! 🙂

  33. Great instructions. Did you ever have any issues with the plastic wheels in the tracks? I just installed a couple panels (after just buying 14 panels to put up around my house). The plastic wheels aren’t rolling very well though. My wife and I are pretty frustrated because we’re going to be trying to sell our house in the next 6 months; we don’t need extra shenanigans. If you have any answers/suggestions, I’m all ears!
    Again, great instructions. Much better than the Ikea ones. I think they use pictures like that so they don’t have to pay as much getting them translated into so many different languages. …unfortunately, the extra expense is the consumers’ sanity.

    • Hi Adam,

      I haven’t had any issues with my plastic wheels in the tracks…not sure what to suggest to fix them. If you are close to an IKEA, I would suggest taking in the offending wheels and asking for a replacement since they seem to be defective. You could try calling if you are far from a store. I have requested replacement parts before at the IKEA store and gotten new ones without an issue.

      Glad my instructions could be of help! 🙂 Best of luck with your blinds and selling your house!

  34. Hi Kate,

    This is fantastic! My man and I recently moved into the house his grandparents built in the mid 50s. We’re cursed with the same plastic vertical blinds on some of our long mid century windows. Your affordable solution is elegant – it looks contemporary and era appropriate at the same time – and your very detailed installation instructions are invaluable. I’m excited to get started on ours! I’ve also been enjoying your posts on Retro Renovation. Thanks for all your good work!

  35. Thank you for the very clear instructions and photographs! I didn’t have any problems with the rails and panels, but the catch system was driving me crazy! Now I know where I went wrong and can fix it. I wish I had found your instructions before I installed our Kvartal system…they would have saved me so much time. Thanks again!

  36. Thank you for such detailed & clear instructions! I just bought the system and I’m hiring a handyman to do the install (not worth a divorce!). I have a few questions if you don’t mind… I have two very large sliders that meet in a corner. I bought the triple track with a corner (curved) unit. My plan was to use the back 2 rails for the panels – which i thought would create an overlap to eliminate light coming through between the panels. The 3rd rail (on the outside) I was going to use to hang drapery panels at the ends and in the middle. But now that I’m looking at your pictures, I’m confused! It looks like you had to use all 3 rails for the panels in order to get them to draw/catch properly. To accomplish the look I want, do I need to add a single rail? Thanks!!!!!!


  38. Pingback: Tutorial: IKEA Kvartal Curtain System | exscapes

  39. i love this system and have had them for a few years now but im finding a problem with them, in the top and bottom rail set, there are some plastic clips that pull the curtains shut and they just keep breaking have had to replace them many times, you cant buy them on their own and it costs £5 to buy another rail set

    • I’ve been searching the net to find a solution for these breaking plastic clips. A few of mine have snapped too; I think because of the heat in the summer and the cold in the winter. We are always very careful when opening and closing. Lisa is right (I think) in saying that you can’t purchase the little clips by themselves; they come with the top and bottom rails along with some other hardware, for more than I want to pay for the plastic pieces alone. http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/30079370/ Wondered if anyone found how to get just these plastic pieces alone since this post a year ago.

      • mike, i work at ikea long island in textiles, as a window treatment specialist. i keep dozens of extra pieces on hand and give them (free) to customers who need extra..(as in your case). just go directly to the textiles department at your local ikea and ask the shopkeeper or a well knowledged coworker for the pieces you need. do not go to customer service! you’ll get no help there! angelo. any other issues you can also call ikea on long island and ask for me.. in the textiles department. ill help ya anyway i can. angelo

      • That’s great. I’m a ways from Long Island (London, Canada) but will give this a shot at the closest store. Thanks so very kindly.

  40. Here we are, two years out from your original post, and this is still the clearest explanation of how to add hardware to the back of the Kvartal curtain panels. I took some pictures of my own, which I should post in some strategic spots like Pinterest.

  41. HI, just curious as to how you tightened the the little tiny phillips screw on the bottom of the wall hardware? I first tried going with this hardware but bailed aborted because I only had about 8 inched from the ceiling to the window frame and couldn’t get a screw driver into the bottom of the wall hardware because the window frame didn’t permit it. I ended up going with the ceiling fixture mounts.

  42. by the way, thank you so much for clearing up the catch system for the rods…I have been looking for that information. IKEA is always vague but that one not even remotely close to being understandable.

  43. Thanks so much for instructions on the Kvartal panel system. When I was at IKEA they had no idea about the catch system and told me that I would need to buy a pull for every panel. Fortunately I had researched enough to know that the advice was not very good, but still had trouble figuring out how to make it work. Thanks so much for taking the time to take the pics instead of passing the pars. LOL

    • No problem Peggy! Glad to help. I too originally thought that you needed a pull stick for every panel, but then I figured it out — with no help from the person at IKEA. They should have a display of this style of window treatment up so that you can try it out and see how it works!

  44. I also just wanted to say thank you for the very detailed and helpful information. Your post convinced me to give the rail system a try in our master bedroom. Merry Xmas and Happy Holidays!

  45. Great post – much appreciated. Any thoughts on whether it would work to cut down the width. We have awkward windows of 19″ and then 52″ windows where 3 24″ panels have not enough room to stack outside the window. Be nice to have a way to 18″ panels out them.

    Any thoughts much appreciated and really appreciate the post.

    • Hi Joe, Glad the post was helpful!

      I have never heard of anyone cutting the width of the panels, or tried it myself. Upon looking at the top and bottom rails, It looks like it might be possible to cut the rails and unscrew/move the little nubs that hook into the curtain tracks. You would surely need a good saw to avoid ruining the rails (scratching/uneven cuts). Let me know if you end up doing this successfully… it would be great for others to know about! Good luck!

  46. Pingback: HALL BATHROOM PARTIAL REMODEL — PHASES EXPLAINED | Retroranchrevamp's Blog

  47. thank you so much for taking the time to post all the steps of the method you figured out to cover your non-24″ windows! we recently moved into a rental with a LOT of windows and i love the look of the panels that come with the kvartal track from IKEA and was totally frustrated that all the modern, clean looks were only 24″ or less, as our windows are old and all 31″ ….your windows look great and fit the style of your house perfectly! off to IKEA to gather materials, and a new saw! 🙂

  48. THANK YOU for this detailed post! I have exactly the same type of windows in my ranch house and was struggling with hanging a set of these in my son’s bedroom. I realize now that I need some additional parts, but knowing is half the battle! Much appreciated.

  49. I never, seriously never, could have done this without you. Not for the faint of heart, a long and frustrating day even with your excellent tutorial. IKEA needs to put you on the payroll. Do you have any advice on how to arrange the catch hardware so that it will catch on both opening and closing? I have the 3 rail and the panels are catching to open, but I have to manually close the middle panel. Thank you! Shannon Jones

    • So glad I could help Shannon! About your opening/closing issue — check to make sure all the little plastic tabs (catches) are hitting each other for both open and close. You may have one on backwards or something. Hope that helps! It seems like you are close, just need a little troubleshooting. 🙂

  50. Hello! We’ve tried to open the bracket tiny screw, and with all the tools we had in the house and the additional head drivers of multiple sizes we bought from Lowe’s, there was nothing we could fit and unscrew it… Could you pls. tell us what size screwdriver/head did you use for that? Thank you very much!

      • Thank you! We figured it out in the end. The one screw we tried first was broken, but managed with the others. Appreciate your response!

  51. Ikea really should send some love your way. Great post! Thank you! We are in the middle of the installation and the customer at Ikea who told me these were “horrible to install” obviously didn’t read your blog. You have already made the process easier for us!

  52. Thanks for the great instructions. I may do this system too.
    I’m just wondering now that it’s been a while since you installed this how is it holding up ? Would you do it again ?
    Thanks, Tony

    • Hi Tony,

      For the most part, the curtains are holding up quite well. My only complaint is that the little plastic “catch pieces” that hook onto each other when the curtain is being pulled open and closed should be made out of metal instead of plastic. I’ve had a few of them break over the last several years (on my most used curtains — the ones that get opened and closed the most on a regular basis). Luckily they gave me a few extras in the package that I’ve been able to easily swap out, but eventually I will be out of extras and then will have to go in search of new parts at the store. I do really like the blinds though, and would install them again. Hope that helps!

  53. I’m in the process of purchasing the Kvarta system and wasn’t sure which pieces I needed buy, much less how to install. You’re bog has saved me trips to the Ikea store 2 hours away and frustration putting it in place. Thanks for the time and effort blogging this!

  54. How thick are the rails + brackets? I can’t find the parts on the Ikea website at all. I’m thinking of installing three panels across an open 65″ doorway between my kitchen and a little office space, but the panels will need to slide out of the way to just a 20″ space behind my back door. I’m thinking I’ll need to install a triple rail, but I’m not sure how far it will stick out from the wall behind the back door and if the panels will get in the way of the door swing.

    Also, can you cut the panels to decrease the width, say, from 24″ to 20″? I’m thinking if I do that, they won’t show from the kitchen when they’re open , and leaving 5″ not fully covered in the opening by the three panel panels would be just fine for the level of privacy needed.

    Thank you for these great instructions and for any tips you can offer!

    • Ikea no longer carries this system — they have a similar new system. I am not sure how the two compare. On the Kvartal system, you could not decrease the width of the panels from 24 inches because of the way they attached to the rail. Not sure about the new system. Good luck!

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